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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. However, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks a family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their humble shop earning such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.